Sebum control and anti-acne composition

ABSTRACT

A method for reducing skin inflammation or reducing sebum production from sebaceous glands is disclosed. The method can include topically applying to skin in need thereof a composition comprising Psidium guajava fruit extract and Kunzea ericoides leaf extract, wherein topical application of the composition reduces skin inflammation or sebum production from sebaceous glands.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This is a continuation application of U.S. patent application Ser. No.13/339,168 filed Dec. 28, 2011, which claims the benefit of U.S.Provisional Application No. 61,428,740, filed Dec. 30, 2010, and U.S.Provisional Application No. 61/427,736, filed Dec. 28, 2010. Thecontents of the referenced applications are incorporated into thepresent application by reference.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION A. Field of the Invention

The present invention relates generally to topical skin compositionsthat can be used to reduce the amount of sebum production in sebaceousglands and unclog pores. It can also be used to treat acne. Thecompositions can include Psidium guajava fruit extract or a combinationof Psidium guajava fruit extract and Kunzea ericoides leaf extract.

B. Description of Related Art

Human skin naturally produces and secrets an oily substance called sebumfrom sebaceous glands located near the skin surface. Sebum lubricatesand protects skin against moisture loss by forming a film over thesurface of the skin. A build-up of sebum on the surface of skin cancause the skin to appear shiny or oily. Besides the visually unappealingappearance of shiny or oily skin, sebum build-up can also highlight skinimperfections, promote skin acne development, and reduce the wearabilityof cosmetic compositions such as foundations.

Acne is a skin condition typically characterized by the presence ofwhiteheads, blackheads, or inflamed pimples on the surface a person'sskin. Acne oftentimes occurs when the pores of a person's skin becomeclogged. Clogged pores can happen when the sebaceous glands overproducesebum. A clogged pore can also accumulate dirt, debris, and bacteria.The blockage or plug is typically referred to as a comedone. When acomedone ruptures, the material inside can spread to surrounding skin,which can result in an inflammatory reaction.

Current methods that are used to reduce sebum production, unclog pores,or treat acne include caustic agents that can further lead to skinirritation or can result in dry and flaky skin.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The inventor found a solution to the aforementioned problems. Thissolution is premised on the use of a Psidium guajava fruit extract byitself or in combination with a Kunzea ericoides leaf extract to reducethe amount of sebum produced by sebaceous glands, to unclog pores, andto treat acne.

In one aspect of the present invention there is disclosed a method forremoving sebum from the surface of a person's skin, reducing sebumproduction or secretion in sebaceous glands and/or unclogging porescomprising topically applying a composition that includes a Psidiumguajava (guava) fruit extract to skin in need thereof, wherein topicalapplication of the composition reduces sebum production in sebaceousglands or unclogs pores. The composition can applied to oily skin orskin having a shiny appearance, to skin that includes sebaceous glandsthat are overproducing sebum, to clogged skin pores, and/or to acne(e.g., a pimple, a black head, a white head, a papule, a nodule, apustule, an inflammatory lesion, or a cyst). The Psidium guajava fruitextract can be an aqueous extract or a hydroglycolic extract of guavapulp. In certain instances, the Psidium guajava fruit extract does notinclude an extract from the leaf, root, stem, bark, seed, and/or flowerportion of guava. The composition, in some embodiments, does not includea guava leaf, root, stem, bark, seed, or flower, or an extract thereof.The Psidium guajava fruit extract can further include water and glycerinand optionally a preservative. In addition, the composition can alsoinclude Kunzea ericoides (kanuka) leaf extract, which can be used tohelp unclog pores. The extract can be an aqueous extract or ahydroglycolic extract of the leaf of kanuka. The extract can alsoinclude water and butylene glycol. The method can further be defined asremoving material from a blocked pore in a person's skin with acomposition comprising Psidium guajava fruit extract and/or Kunzeaericoides leaf extract, wherein topical application of the compositionremoves the material from the blocked pore in the person's skin. Thematerial blocking the pore can be sebum, dirt, or other items that canbe lodged in the pore.

Also disclosed is a method for treating acne comprising topicallyapplying a composition that includes a Psidium guajava fruit extract toskin in need thereof, wherein topical application of the compositiontreats acne. The composition can also include a Kunzea ericoides leafextract. The Psidium guajava fruit extract can be an aqueous extract ora hydroglycolic extract of guava pulp. The Psidium guajava fruit extractcan further include water and glycerin and optionally a preservative.The Kunzea ericoides extract can be an aqueous extract or ahydroglycolic extract of the leaf of kanuka. The Kunzea ericoidesextract can also include water and butylene glycol.

In another embodiment there is disclosed a topical skin care compositioncomprising an effective amount of a Psidium guajava fruit extract orKunzea ericoides leaf extract or both to remove sebum from a person'sskin, reduce sebum production or secretion in sebaceous glands, tounclog pores or to treat acne or symptoms related to acne. An effectiveamount can be 0.01, 0.05, 0.1, 0.5, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11,12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29,30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 70, 80, 90, or more by weight or volume ofthe composition. As noted above, the Psidium guajava fruit extract canbe an aqueous extract or a hydroglycolic extract of guava pulp. Incertain instances, the Psidium guajava fruit extract does not include anextract from the leaf, root, stem, bark, seed, and/or flower portion ofguava. The composition, in some embodiments, does not include a guavaleaf, root, stem, bark, seed, or flower, or an extract thereof. ThePsidium guajava fruit extract can further include water and glycerin andoptionally a preservative. The Kunzea ericoides leaf extract can be anaqueous extract or a hydroglycolic extract of the leaf of kanuka. Theextract can also include water and butylene glycol. The composition canbe free of alcohol or free of synthetic dyes or both. Being alcohol freereduces the possibility of skin irritation. The composition can beformulated as an emulsion, lotion, cream, serum, cleanser, or gel. Foremulsions, water in oil and oil in water emulsions can be used, with oilin water emulsions being used in particular instances.

The compositions and methods for their use can “comprise,” “consistessentially of,” or “consist of” any of the ingredients disclosedthroughout the specification. “Consisting essentially of” means thatinclusion of additional ingredients in the compositions do notmaterially affect the beneficial properties of the compositions toreduce sebum production, unclog pores, or to treat acne. For instance,ingredients that can clog pores, increase sebum production, or have anegative effect in treating acne would be excluded.

It is contemplated that any embodiment discussed in this specificationcan be implemented with respect to any method or composition of theinvention, and vice versa. Furthermore, compositions of the inventioncan be used to achieve methods of the invention.

In one embodiment, compositions of the present invention can bepharmaceutically or cosmetically elegant or can have pleasant tactileproperties. “Pharmaceutically elegant,” “cosmetically elegant,” and/or“pleasant tactile properties” describes a composition that hasparticular tactile properties which feel pleasant on the skin (e.g.,compositions that are not too watery or greasy, compositions that have asilky texture, compositions that are non-tacky or sticky, etc.).Pharmaceutically or cosmetically elegant can also relate to thecreaminess or lubricity properties of the composition or to the moistureretaining properties of the composition.

“Acne” includes pimples, black heads, white heads, papules, nodules,pustules, inflammatory lesions, or cysts.

“Topical application” means to apply or spread a composition onto thesurface of lips or keratinous tissue. “Topical skin composition”includes compositions suitable for topical application on lips orkeratinous tissue. Such compositions are typicallydermatologically-acceptable in that they do not have undue toxicity,incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like, whenapplied to lips or skin. Topical skin care compositions of the presentinvention can have a selected viscosity to avoid significant dripping orpooling after application to skin.

“Keratinous tissue” includes keratin-containing layers disposed as theoutermost protective covering of mammals and includes, but is notlimited to, lips, skin, hair and nails.

The term “about” or “approximately” are defined as being close to asunderstood by one of ordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limitingembodiment the terms are defined to be within 10%, preferably within 5%,more preferably within 1%, and most preferably within 0.5%.

The term “substantially” and its variations are defined as being largelybut not necessarily wholly what is specified as understood by one ofordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limiting embodimentsubstantially refers to ranges within 10%, within 5%, within 1%, orwithin 0.5%.

The terms “inhibiting,” “reducing,” “treating” or any variation of theseterms, when used in the claims and/or the specification includes anymeasurable decrease or complete inhibition to achieve a desired result.

The term “effective,” as that term is used in the specification and/orclaims, means adequate to accomplish a desired, expected, or intendedresult.

The use of the word “a” or “an” when used in conjunction with the term“comprising” in the claims and/or the specification may mean “one,” butit is also consistent with the meaning of “one or more,” “at least one,”and “one or more than one.”

As used in this specification and claim(s), the words “comprising” (andany form of comprising, such as “comprise” and “comprises”), “having”(and any form of having, such as “have” and “has”), “including” (and anyform of including, such as “includes” and “include”) or “containing”(and any form of containing, such as “contains” and “contain”) areinclusive or open-ended and do not exclude additional, unrecitedelements or method steps.

Other objects, features and advantages of the present invention willbecome apparent from the following detailed description. It should beunderstood, however, that the detailed description and the examples,while indicating specific embodiments of the invention, are given by wayof illustration only. Additionally, it is contemplated that changes andmodifications within the spirit and scope of the invention will becomeapparent to those skilled in the art from this detailed description.

DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

Oily skin is typically shiny, thick, and dull colored in appearance.Chronically oily skin typically includes coarse pores, pimples, andother related blemishes. A primary cause of oily skin is that the oilproducing sebaceous glands are overactive and produce more oil than isneeded. When this occurs, the skin appears shiny and feels greasy, bothof which are typically undesirable on skin such as facial skin.

Skin pores can become blocked or clogged by sebum, dirt, makeup, andother substances that become lodged inside the pores. Oftentimes, aclogged pore will have a larger appearance when compared withsurrounding pores that are not clogged. This is due to the matter insidethe clogged pore expanding the pore (and thus its size). Also, cloggedpores can have a different color (e.g., white or black) when comparedwith un-clogged pores. The most common areas in which pores becomeclogged are on a person's face, and in particular, the “T-zone,” whichincludes the forehead, nose and chin. Clogged pores can lead to acne.

Acne is a common inflammatory skin disorder which usually localizes insebaceous areas of the body such as on the face, back, or chest. Acnevulgaris is the most common form of acne affecting up to 80% of peoplebetween the ages of 11 and 35 years. Acne is caused by the obstructionof sebaceous follicles, which are primarily located on the face andtrunk due to excessive production of sebum in the follicles. Theobstruction can cause the formation of a microcomedo, which can forminto comedones (e.g., whitehead or a black head) or an inflammatorylesion.

One of the unique aspects of the present invention is the use of aparticular guava fruit extract that has the ability to reduce the amountof sebum produced by sebaceous glands, unclog pores, and treat acne.Also, the addition of a particular kanuka leaf extract can worksynergistically with the guava fruit extract to cleanse or unclogclogged pores. These and other aspect of the present invention aredescribed in further detail below.

A. Guava Fruit Extract

Guava or Psidium guajava is an evergreen tree or shrub that can reach 6to 25 feet in height. It produces green leaves, fragrant white flowers,and fruit. The fruit is pear-shaped and 3 to 6 cm in length. When ripe,the skin of the fruit has a reddish-yellow color. This plant is nativeto the region spanning Mexico to northern South America. The fruitportion of guava is used in the context of the present invention toobtain the extract.

The guava fruit extract of the present invention is produced bymacerating the fruit pulp and then subjecting the pulp to ahydroglycolic solution of water, glycerin, and preservatives to obtainthe extract. The extract is then filtered and packaged for storage. Inaddition to this extraction process, guava fruit extract of the presentinvention can be purchased from Carrubba Inc., Milford, Conn. (USA). TheCAS number for this extract is 90045-46-8, and the EINECS number is289-907-2. Note that the guava fruit extract referenced in the Examplessection of this application was obtained from Carrubba Inc.

In addition to controlling sebum production in sebaceous glands, theguava fruit extract can also be used as an anti-inflammatory,antimicrobial, antioxidant, astringent, exfoliating, healing, repairing,and/or toning ingredient in topical skin formulations.

B. Kanuka Leaf Extract

Kanuka or Kunzea ericoides is a tree that can reach up to 30 meters inheight. The leaves have an oval shape and the flowers are white. Thisplant is native to Australia and New Zealand. The Kunzea ericoides leafextract of the present invention can be obtained from the leaf portionof this plant by macerating the leaf and then subjecting the leaf to anaqueous extraction process. The extract can then be filtered, placed ina butylene glycol solution, and packaged for storage or be added to acomposition of the present invention. In addition to this extractionprocess, kanuka leaf extract can be purchased from Southern CrossBotanicals, New South Wales (AUSTRALIA) under the trade name ABACROSSKANUKA BG.

C. Identification of Clogged Pores

A person can determine whether or not they have clogged skin pores inview of a variety of different methods that are known to those havingordinary skill in the art. For instance, any one of the followingmethods can be used: (1) Examine the skin to identify pores that arelarger than surrounding pores. Clogged pores tend to be larger as thedebris or matter clogging the pore expands the pore size; (2) Examinethe skin to identify pores having a white or black color. Such pores aretypically clogged (e.g., whitehead or blackhead); and/or (3) Use steamto open up the suspected clogged pores (e.g., hot water can be used toproduce the steam, which can be held close to the area of skin suspectedas having clogged pores for 5 to 10 minutes). After the 5 to 10 minuteperiod of time, then a person can gently push/squeeze the suspected areaof skin to see if any debris or matter is expelled from the pores. Ifwhite matter comes out of the pore, the pore is clogged with softimpurities. If dark matter comes out, then the pore is clogged withhardened oils.

D. Sebum Reduction Determination

The efficacy of the compositions of the present invention to reducesebum secretion from sebaceous glands and/or to reduce sebum productionfrom sebaceous glands and/or removing sebum from skin can be assayed byusing standard techniques known to those having ordinary skill in theart. In one instance, the forehead can be used. A composition of thepresent invention can be applied to one portion of the forehead once ortwice daily for a set period of days (e.g., 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9,10, 11, 12, 13, 14, or more days), while another portion of the foreheadis not treated with the composition. After the set period of daysexpires, then sebum secretion can be assayed by application of fineblotting paper to the treated and untreated forehead skin. This is doneby first removing any sebum from the treated and untreated areas withmoist and dry cloths. Blotting paper can then be applied to the treatedand untreated areas of the forehead, and an elastic band can be placedaround the forehead to gently press the blotting paper onto the skin.After 2 hours the blotting papers can be removed, allowed to dry andthen transilluminated. Darker blotting paper correlates with more sebumsecretion and lighter blotting paper correlates with reduced sebumsecretion.

E. Compositions of the Present Invention

It is contemplated that the compositions of the present invention caninclude any amount of guava fruit and/or kanuka leaf extract. Thecompositions can also include any number of combinations of additionalingredients described throughout this specification (e.g., pigments, oradditional cosmetic or pharmaceutical ingredients). The concentrationsof the any ingredient within the compositions can vary. In non-limitingembodiments, for example, the compositions can comprise, consistingessentially of, or consist of, in their final form, for example, atleast about 0.0001%, 0.0002%, 0.0003%, 0.0004%, 0.0005%, 0.0006%,0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%, 0.0010%, 0.0011%, 0.0012%, 0.0013%, 0.0014%,0.0015%, 0.0016%, 0.0017%, 0.0018%, 0.0019%, 0.0020%, 0.0021%, 0.0022%,0.0023%, 0.0024%, 0.0025%, 0.0026%, 0.0027%, 0.0028%, 0.0029%, 0.0030%,0.0031%, 0.0032%, 0.0033%, 0.0034%, 0.0035%, 0.0036%, 0.0037%, 0.0038%,0.0039%, 0.0040%, 0.0041%, 0.0042%, 0.0043%, 0.0044%, 0.0045%, 0.0046%,0.0047%, 0.0048%, 0.0049%, 0.0050%, 0.0051%, 0.0052%, 0.0053%, 0.0054%,0.0055%, 0.0056%, 0.0057%, 0.0058%, 0.0059%, 0.0060%, 0.0061%, 0.0062%,0.0063%, 0.0064%, 0.0065%, 0.0066%, 0.0067%, 0.0068%, 0.0069%, 0.0070%,0.0071%, 0.0072%, 0.0073%, 0.0074%, 0.0075%, 0.0076%, 0.0077%, 0.0078%,0.0079%, 0.0080%, 0.0081%, 0.0082%, 0.0083%, 0.0084%, 0.0085%, 0.0086%,0.0087%, 0.0088%, 0.0089%, 0.0090%, 0.0091%, 0.0092%, 0.0093%, 0.0094%,0.0095%, 0.0096%, 0.0097%, 0.0098%, 0.0099%, 0.0100%, 0.0200%, 0.0250%,0.0275%, 0.0300%, 0.0325%, 0.0350%, 0.0375%, 0.0400%, 0.0425%, 0.0450%,0.0475%, 0.0500%, 0.0525%, 0.0550%, 0.0575%, 0.0600%, 0.0625%, 0.0650%,0.0675%, 0.0700%, 0.0725%, 0.0750%, 0.0775%, 0.0800%, 0.0825%, 0.0850%,0.0875%, 0.0900%, 0.0925%, 0.0950%, 0.0975%, 0.1000%, 0.1250%, 0.1500%,0.1750%, 0.2000%, 0.2250%, 0.2500%, 0.2750%, 0.3000%, 0.3250%, 0.3500%,0.3750%, 0.4000%, 0.4250%, 0.4500%, 0.4750%, 0.5000%, 0.5250%, 0.0550%,0.5750%, 0.6000%, 0.6250%, 0.6500%, 0.6750%, 0.7000%, 0.7250%, 0.7500%,0.7750%, 0.8000%, 0.8250%, 0.8500%, 0.8750%, 0.9000%, 0.9250%, 0.9500%,0.9750%, 1.0%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%, 1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%,2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%, 3.1%,3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%, 4.0%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%,4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5.0%, 5.1%, 5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%,5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6.0%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%, 6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%,6.8%, 6.9%, 7.0%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%, 7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%,8.0%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%, 8.8%, 8.9%, 9.0%, 9.1%,9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%,15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%, 21%, 22%, 23%, 24%, 25%, 26%, 27%, 28%,29%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, or99% or any range derivable therein, of at least one of the ingredientsthat are mentioned throughout the specification and claims. Innon-limiting aspects, the percentage can be calculated by weight orvolume of the total composition. A person of ordinary skill in the artwould understand that the concentrations can vary depending on theaddition, substitution, and/or subtraction of ingredients in a givencomposition.

F. Vehicles

The compositions of the present invention can be incorporated into alltypes of vehicles. Non-limiting examples include emulsions (e.g.,water-in-oil, water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water, silicone-in-water,water-in-silicone, oil-in-water-in-oil, oil-in-water-in-siliconeemulsions), creams, lotions, solutions (both aqueous andhydro-alcoholic), anhydrous bases (such as lipsticks and powders), gels,and ointments. Variations and other appropriate vehicles will beapparent to the skilled artisan and are appropriate for use in thepresent invention. In certain aspects, it is important that theconcentrations and combinations of the compounds, ingredients, andagents be selected in such a way that the combinations are chemicallycompatible and do not form complexes which precipitate from the finishedproduct.

G. Cosmetic Products and Articles of Manufacture

The composition of the present invention can also be used in manycosmetic products including, but not limited to, lip sticks, lip balms,lip glosses, sunscreen products, sunless skin tanning products, hairproducts, finger nail products, moisturizing creams, skin benefit creamsand lotions, softeners, day lotions, gels, ointments, foundations, nightcreams, cleansers, toners, masks, or other known cosmetic products orapplications. Additionally, the cosmetic products can be formulated asleave-on or rinse-off products. In certain aspects, the compositions ofthe present invention are stand-alone products.

H. Additional Ingredients

In addition to the guava fruit extract compositions of the presentinvention can include additional ingredients such as cosmeticingredients and pharmaceutical active ingredients. Non-limiting examplesof these additional ingredients are described in the followingsubsections.

1. Cosmetic Ingredients

The CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (2004and 2008) describes a wide variety of non-limiting cosmetic ingredientsthat can be used in the context of the present invention. Examples ofthese ingredient classes include: fragrances (artificial and natural),dyes and color ingredients (e.g., Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake, Red 40, titaniumdioxide, D&C blue no. 4, D&C green no. 5, D&C orange no. 4, D&C red no.17, D&C red no. 33, D&C violet no. 2, D&C yellow no. 10, and D&C yellowno. 11), adsorbents, lubricants, solvents, moisturizers (including,e.g., emollients, humectants, film formers, occlusive agents, and agentsthat affect the natural moisturization mechanisms of the skin),water-repellants, UV absorbers (physical and chemical absorbers such asparaaminobenzoic acid (“PABA”) and corresponding PABA derivatives,titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, etc.), essential oils, vitamins (e.g. A,B, C, D, E, and K), trace metals (e.g. zinc, calcium and selenium),anti-irritants (e.g. steroids and non-steroidal anti-inflammatories),botanical extracts (e.g. aloe vera, chamomile, cucumber extract, ginkgobiloba, ginseng, and rosemary), anti-microbial agents, antioxidants(e.g., BHT and tocopherol), chelating agents (e.g., disodium EDTA andtetrasodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., methylparaben andpropylparaben), pH adjusters (e.g., sodium hydroxide and citric acid),absorbents (e.g., aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, kaolin, corn starch,oat starch, cyclodextrin, talc, and zeolite), skin bleaching andlightening agents (e.g., hydroquinone and niacinamide lactate),humectants (e.g., sorbitol, urea, and manitol), exfoliants,waterproofing agents (e.g., magnesium/aluminum hydroxide stearate), skinconditioning agents (e.g., aloe extracts, allantoin, bisabolol,ceramides, dimethicone, hyaluronic acid, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate).Non-limiting examples of some of these ingredients are provided in thefollowing subsections.

a. UV Absorption Agents

UV absorption agents that can be used in combination with thecompositions of the present invention include chemical and physicalsunblocks. Non-limiting examples of chemical sunblocks that can be usedinclude para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), PABA esters (glyceryl PABA,amyldimethyl PABA and octyldimethyl PABA), butyl PABA, ethyl PABA, ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA, benzophenones (oxybenzone, sulisobenzone,benzophenone, and benzophenone-1 through 12), cinnamates (octylmethoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octylmethoxy cinnamate,cinoxate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, DEA-methoxycinnamate, ethyldiisopropylcinnamate, glyceryl octanoate dimethoxycinnamate and ethylmethoxycinnamate), cinnamate esters, salicylates (homomethyl salicylate,benzyl salicylate, glycol salicylate, isopropylbenzyl salicylate, etc.),anthranilates, ethyl urocanate, homosalate, octisalate, dibenzoylmethanederivatives (e.g., avobenzone), octocrylene, octyl triazone, digalloytrioleate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, lawsone with dihydroxyacetone,ethylhexyl triazone, dioctyl butamido triazone, benzylidene malonatepolysiloxane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate, bis diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, bisbenzoxazoylphenyl ethylhexylimino triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane,methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyiphenol, andbis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine,4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate.Non-limiting examples of physical sunblocks include, kaolin, talc,petrolatum and metal oxides (e.g., titanium dioxide and zinc oxide).

b. Moisturizing Agents

Non-limiting examples of moisturizing agents that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include amino acids, chondroitinsulfate, diglycerin, erythritol, fructose, glucose, glycerin, glycerolpolymers, glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, honey, hyaluronic acid,hydrogenated honey, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, inositol, lactitol,maltitol, maltose, mannitol, natural moisturizing factor, PEG-15butanediol, polyglyceryl sorbitol, salts of pyrollidone carboxylic acid,potassium PCA, propylene glycol, sodium glucuronate, sodium PCA,sorbitol, sucrose, trehalose, urea, and xylitol.

Other examples include acetylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin alcohol,alanine, algae extract, aloe barbadensis, aloe-barbadensis extract, aloebarbadensis gel, althea officinalis extract, apricot (prunus armeniaca)kernel oil, arginine, arginine aspartate, arnica montana extract,aspartic acid, avocado (persea gratissima) oil, barrier sphingolipids,butyl alcohol, beeswax, behenyl alcohol, beta-sitosterol, birch (betulaalba) bark extract, borage (borago officinalis) extract, butcherbroom(ruscus aculeatus) extract, butylene glycol, calendula officinalisextract, calendula officinalis oil, candelilla (euphorbia cerifera) wax,canola oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cardamon (elettariacardamomum) oil, carnauba (copernicia cerifera) wax, carrot (daucuscarota sativa) oil, castor (ricinus communis) oil, ceramides, ceresin,ceteareth-5, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, cetearyl octanoate, ceteth-20,ceteth-24, cetyl acetate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, chamomile(anthemis nobilis) oil, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, cholesterylhydroxystearate, citric acid, clary (salvia sclarea) oil, cocoa(theobroma cacao) butter, coco-caprylate/caprate, coconut (cocosnucifera) oil, collagen, collagen amino acids, corn (zea mays) oil,fatty acids, decyl oleate, dimethicone copolyol, dimethiconol, dioctyladipate, dioctyl succinate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate,DNA, erythritol, ethoxydiglycol, ethyl linoleate, eucalyptus globulusoil, evening primrose (oenothera biennis) oil, fatty acids, geraniummaculatum oil, glucosamine, glucose glutamate, glutamic acid,glycereth-26, glycerin, glycerol, glyceryl distearate, glycerylhydroxystearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glycerylmyristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE,glycine, glycol stearate, glycol stearate SE, glycosaminoglycans, grape(vitis vinifera) seed oil, hazel (corylus americana) nut oil, hazel(corylus avellana) nut oil, hexylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, hybridsafflower (carthamus tinctorius) oil, hydrogenated castor oil,hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenatedlanolin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated palm glyceride,hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenatedtallow glyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil, hydrolyzed collagen,hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, hydrolyzed keratin,hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxylated lanolin, hydroxyproline, isocetylstearate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, isodecyl oleate, isopropylisostearate, isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropyl stearate, isostearamide DEA, isostearic acid,isostearyl lactate, isostearyl neopentanoate, jasmine (jasminumofficinale) oil, jojoba (buxus chinensis) oil, kelp, kukui (aleuritesmoluccana) nut oil, lactamide MEA, laneth-16, laneth-10 acetate,lanolin, lanolin acid, lanolin alcohol, lanolin oil, lanolin wax,lavender (lavandula angustifolia) oil, lecithin, lemon (citrus medicalimonum) oil, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, macadamia ternifolia nutoil, maltitol, matricaria (chamomilla recutita) oil, methyl glucosesesquistearate, methylsilanol PCA, mineral oil, mink oil, mortierellaoil, myristyl lactate, myristyl myristate, myristyl propionate,neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecylmyristate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, octyl hydroxystearate, octylpalmitate, octyl salicylate, octyl stearate, oleic acid, olive (oleaeuropaea) oil, orange (citrus aurantium dulcis) oil, palm (elaeisguineensis) oil, palmitic acid, pantethine, panthenol, panthenyl ethylether, paraffin, PCA, peach (prunus persica) kernel oil, peanut (arachishypogaea) oil, PEG-8 C12-18 ester, PEG-15 cocamine, PEG-150 distearate,PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-5 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glycerylstearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil,PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate,PEG40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-10 soy sterol, PEG-2stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-32 stearate, PEG40stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 stearate,pentadecalactone, peppermint (mentha piperita) oil, petrolatum,phospholipids, polyamino sugar condensate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate,polyquaternium-24, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 40, polysorbate 60,polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85, potassium myristate, potassiumpalmitate, propylene glycol, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate,propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propyleneglycol laurate, propylene glycol stearate, propylene glycol stearate SE,PVP, pyridoxine dipalmitate, retinol, retinyl palmitate, rice (oryzasativa) bran oil, RNA, rosemary (rosmarinus officinalis) oil, rose oil,safflower (carthamus tinctorius) oil, sage (salvia officinalis) oil,sandalwood (santalum album) oil, serine, serum protein, sesame (sesamumindicum) oil, shea butter (butyrospermum parkii), silk powder, sodiumchondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium lactate, sodiumpalmitate, sodium PCA, sodium polyglutamate, soluble collagen, sorbitanlaurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan sesquioleate,sorbitan stearate, sorbitol, soybean (glycine soja) oil, sphingolipids,squalane, squalene, stearamide MEA-stearate, stearic acid, stearoxydimethicone, stearoxytrimethylsilane, stearyl alcohol, stearylglycyrrhetinate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl stearate, sunflower(helianthus annuus) seed oil, sweet almond (prunus amygdalus dulcis)oil, synthetic beeswax, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryllinoleate, tribehenin, tridecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl stearate,triethanolamine, tristearin, urea, vegetable oil, water, waxes, wheat(triticum vulgare) germ oil, and ylang ylang (cananga odorata) oil.

c. Antioxidants

Non-limiting examples of antioxidants that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include acetyl cysteine, ascorbicacid polypeptide, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl methylsilanolpectinate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, BHA, BHT, t-butylhydroquinone, cysteine, cysteine HCl, diamylhydroquinone,di-t-butylhydroquinone, dicetyl thiodipropionate, dioleyl tocopherylmethylsilanol, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, distearyl thiodipropionate,ditridecyl thiodipropionate, dodecyl gallate, erythorbic acid, esters ofascorbic acid, ethyl ferulate, ferulic acid, gallic acid esters,hydroquinone, isooctyl thioglycolate, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbate,magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, methylsilanol ascorbate, natural botanicalanti-oxidants such as green tea or grape seed extracts,nordihydroguaiaretic acid, octyl gallate, phenylthioglycolic acid,potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, potassium sulfite, propylgallate, quinones, rosmarinic acid, sodium ascorbate, sodium bisulfite,sodium erythorbate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, superoxidedismutase, sodium thioglycolate, sorbityl furfural, thiodiglycol,thiodiglycolamide, thiodiglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid, thiolacticacid, thiosalicylic acid, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12,tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50, tocopherol, tocophersolan, tocopherylacetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopherylsuccinate, and tris(nonylphenyl)phosphite.

d. Structuring Agents

In other non-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present inventioncan include a structuring agent. Structuring agent, in certain aspects,assist in providing rheological characteristics to the composition tocontribute to the composition's stability. In other aspects, structuringagents can also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Non-limitingexamples of structuring agents include stearic acid, palmitic acid,stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmiticacid, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an averageof about 1 to about 21 ethylene oxide units, the polyethylene glycolether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethyleneoxide units, and mixtures thereof.

e. Emulsifiers

In certain aspects of the present invention, the compositions do notinclude an emulsifier. In other aspects, however, the compositions caninclude one or more emulsifiers. Emulsifiers can reduce the interfacialtension between phases and improve the formulation and stability of anemulsion. The emulsifiers can be nonionic, cationic, anionic, andzwitterionic emulsifiers (See McCutcheon's (1986); U.S. Pat. Nos.5,011,681; 4,421,769; 3,755,560). Non-limiting examples include estersof glycerin, esters of propylene glycol, fatty acid esters ofpolyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycol, estersof sorbitol, esters of sorbitan anhydrides, carboxylic acid copolymers,esters and ethers of glucose, ethoxylated ethers, ethoxylated alcohols,alkyl phosphates, polyoxyethylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acidamides, acyl lactylates, soaps, TEA stearate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate,polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20),polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, steareth-2, steareth-20, steareth-21,ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, ceteth-10,polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate,diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate,PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

f. Silicone Containing Compounds

In non-limiting aspects, silicone containing compounds include anymember of a family of polymeric products whose molecular backbone ismade up of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms with side groupsattached to the silicon atoms. By varying the —Si—O— chain lengths, sidegroups, and crosslinking, silicones can be synthesized into a widevariety of materials. They can vary in consistency from liquid to gel tosolids.

The silicone containing compounds that can be used in the context of thepresent invention include those described in this specification or thoseknown to a person of ordinary skill in the art. Non-limiting examplesinclude silicone oils (e.g., volatile and non-volatile oils), gels, andsolids. In certain aspects, the silicon containing compounds includes asilicone oils such as a polyorganosiloxane. Non-limiting examples ofpolyorganosiloxanes include dimethicone, cyclomethicone,polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone,stearoxytrimethylsilane, or mixtures of these and other organosiloxanematerials in any given ratio in order to achieve the desired consistencyand application characteristics depending upon the intended application(e.g., to a particular area such as the skin, hair, or eyes). A“volatile silicone oil” includes a silicone oil have a low heat ofvaporization, i.e. normally less than about 50 cal per gram of siliconeoil. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include:cyclomethicones such as Dow Corning 344 Fluid, Dow Corning 345 Fluid,Dow Corning 244 Fluid, and Dow Corning 245 Fluid, Volatile Silicon 7207(Union Carbide Corp., Danbury, Conn.); low viscosity dimethicones, i.e.dimethicones having a viscosity of about 50 cst or less (e.g.,dimethicones such as Dow Corning 200-0.5 cst Fluid). The Dow CorningFluids are available from Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Mich.Cyclomethicone and dimethicone are described in the Third Edition of theCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (incorporated by reference) ascyclic dimethyl polysiloxane compounds and a mixture of fully methylatedlinear siloxane polymers end-blocked with trimethylsiloxy units,respectively. Other non-limiting volatile silicone oils that can be usedin the context of the present invention include those available fromGeneral Electric Co., Silicone Products Div., Waterford, N.Y. and SWSSilicones Div. of Stauffer Chemical Co., Adrian, Mich.

g. Essential Oils

Essential oils include oils derived from herbs, flowers, trees, andother plants. Such oils are typically present as tiny droplets betweenthe plant's cells, and can be extracted by several method known to thoseof skill in the art (e.g., steam distilled, enfleurage (i.e., extractionby using fat), maceration, solvent extraction, or mechanical pressing).When these types of oils are exposed to air they tend to evaporate(i.e., a volatile oil). As a result, many essential oils are colorless,but with age they can oxidize and become darker. Essential oils areinsoluble in water and are soluble in alcohol, ether, fixed oils(vegetal), and other organic solvents. Typical physical characteristicsfound in essential oils include boiling points that vary from about 160°to 240° C. and densities ranging from about 0.759 to about 1.096.

Essential oils typically are named by the plant from which the oil isfound. For example, rose oil or peppermint oil are derived from rose orpeppermint plants, respectively. Non-limiting examples of essential oilsthat can be used in the context of the present invention include sesameoil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, Spanish sageoil, Spanish rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berriesoil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedaroil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil,eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geraniumoil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil,lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrhoil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepperoil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwoodoil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, orylang ylang. Other essential oils known to those of skill in the art arealso contemplated as being useful within the context of the presentinvention.

h. Thickening Agents

Thickening agents, including thickener or gelling agents, includesubstances which that can increase the viscosity of a composition.Thickeners includes those that can increase the viscosity of acomposition without substantially modifying the efficacy of the activeingredient within the composition. Thickeners can also increase thestability of the compositions of the present invention. In certainaspects of the present invention, thickeners include hydrogenatedpolyisobutene or trihydroxystearin, or a mixture of both.

Non-limiting examples of additional thickening agents that can be usedin the context of the present invention include carboxylic acidpolymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers,polysaccharides, and gums. Examples of carboxylic acid polymers includecrosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived fromacrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of theseacrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, wherein thecrosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds andis derived from a polyhydric alcohol (see U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,087,445;4,509,949; 2,798,053; CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,Fourth edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80). Examples of commercially availablecarboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers ofacrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol(e.g., Carbopol™ 900 series from B.F. Goodrich).

Non-limiting examples of crosslinked polyacrylate polymers includecationic and nonionic polymers. Examples are described in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,100,660; 4,849,484; 4,835,206; 4,628,078; 4,599,379).

Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers (including nonionicpolyacrylamide polymers including substituted branched or unbranchedpolymers) include polyacrylamide, isoparaffin and laureth-7, multi-blockcopolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acidsand substituted acrylic acids.

Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include cellulose,carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionatecarboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose,hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulosesulfate, and mixtures thereof Another example is an alkyl substitutedcellulose where the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer ishydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxy ethylated or hydroxypropylated) toform a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with aC₁₀-C₃₀ straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an etherlinkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of C₁₀-C₃₀ straight orbranched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Other usefulpolysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3)linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three unit.

Non-limiting examples of gums that can be used with the presentinvention include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate,amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine,carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluroinic acid, hydratedsilica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp,locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan,propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboyxmethyl dextran,sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

i. Preservatives

Non-limiting examples of preservatives that can be used in the contextof the present invention include quaternary ammonium preservatives suchas polyquaternium-1 and benzalkonium halides (e.g., benzalkoniumchloride (“BAC”) and benzalkonium bromide), parabens (e.g.,methylparabens and propylparabens), phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol,chlorobutanol, phenol, sorbic acid, thimerosal or combinations thereof.

2. Pharmaceutical Ingredients

Pharmaceutical active agents are also contemplated as being useful withthe compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting examples ofpharmaceutical active agents include anti-acne agents, agents used totreat rosacea, analgesics, anesthetics, anorectals, antihistamines,anti-inflammatory agents including non-steroidal anti-inflammatorydrugs, antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals, antimicrobials, anti-canceractives, scabicides, pediculicides, antineoplastics, antiperspirants,antipruritics, antip soriatic agents, anti seborrheic agents,biologically active proteins and peptides, burn treatment agents,cauterizing agents, depigmenting agents, depilatories, diaper rashtreatment agents, enzymes, hair growth stimulants, hair growthretardants including DFMO and its salts and analogs, hemostatics,kerotolytics, canker sore treatment agents, cold sore treatment agents,dental and periodontal treatment agents, photosensitizing actives, skinprotectant/barrier agents, steroids including hormones andcorticosteroids, sunburn treatment agents, sunscreens, transdermalactives, nasal actives, vaginal actives, wart treatment agents, woundtreatment agents, wound healing agents, etc.

I. Kits

Kits are also contemplated as being used in certain aspects of thepresent invention. For instance, compositions of the present inventioncan be included in a kit. A kit can include a container. Containers caninclude a bottle, a metal tube, a laminate tube, a plastic tube, adispenser, a pressurized container, a barrier container, a package, acompartment, a lipstick container, a compact container, cosmetic pansthat can hold cosmetic compositions, or other types of containers suchas injection or blow-molded plastic containers into which thedispersions or compositions or desired bottles, dispensers, or packagesare retained. The kit and/or container can include indicia on itssurface. The indicia, for example, can be a word, a phrase, anabbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

The containers can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition.In other embodiments, the container can be squeezed (e.g., metal,laminate, or plastic tube) to dispense a desired amount of thecomposition. The composition can be dispensed as a spray, an aerosol, aliquid, a fluid, or a semi-solid. The containers can have spray, pump,or squeeze mechanisms. A kit can also include instructions for employingthe kit components as well the use of any other compositions included inthe container. Instructions can include an explanation of how to apply,use, and maintain the compositions.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are included to demonstrate certain non-limitingaspects of the invention. It should be appreciated by those of skill inthe art that the techniques disclosed in the examples which followrepresent techniques discovered by the inventor to function well in thepractice of the invention. However, those of skill in the art should, inlight of the present disclosure, appreciate that many changes can bemade in the specific embodiments which are disclosed and still obtain alike or similar result without departing from the spirit and scope ofthe invention.

Example 1

A formulation having (1) a combination of Psidium guajava fruit extractand Kunzea ericoides leaf extract and (2) a standard aqueous base wasapplied daily for 7 days to skin having clogged pores. The base was notexpected to contribute to the results of this study. After the one weekperiod, 84% of the users confirmed through visual inspection that theformulation unclogged pores that had been previously clogged. 78% of theusers confirmed through visual inspection that the formulation reducedshine and the appearance of enlarged pores. 76% of the users confirmedthat the formulation aided in controlling sebum production on skin.

The Psidium guajava fruit extract used in this study was supplied by mCarrubba Inc., Milford, Conn. (USA). The CAS number for this extract is90045-46-8, and the EINECS number is 289-907-2. The extract is producedby macerating the fruit pulp and then subjecting the pulp to ahydroglycolic solution of water, glycerin, and preservatives to obtainthe extract. The extract is then filtered and packaged for storage.

The Kunzea ericoides leaf extract used in this study was supplied bySouthern Cross Botanicals, New South Wales (AUSTRALIA) under the tradename ABACROSS KANUKA BG, which is an aqueous extract that is placed intoa container with butylene glycol.

Example 2

The formulations described in Tables 1-2 can be used to conduct furthertests on the Psidium guajava fruit extract and Kunzea ericoides leafextract of the present invention.

TABLE 1* Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Phase A Water 84.44Xanthum gum 0.1 M-paraben 0.15 P-paraben 0.1 Citric acid 0.01 Phase BCetyl alcohol 4.0 Glyceryl stearate + PEG 100 4.0 Octyl palmitate 4.0Dimethicone 1.0 Tocopheryl acetate 0.2 Phase C Extract** 2.0 *SprinkleXanthum gum in water and mix for 10 min. Subsequently, add allingredients in phase A and heat to 70-75° C. Add all items in phase B toseparate beaker and heat to 70-75° C. Mix phases A and B at 70-75° C.Continue mixing and allow composition to cool to 30° C. Subsequently,add phase C ingredient while mixing. **Extract can be Psidium guajavafruit extract or Kunzea ericoides leaf extract or a combination of both.

TABLE 2 Ingredient % Concentration (by weight) Phase A Water 78.6M-paraben 0.2 P-paraben 0.1 Na2 EDTA 0.1 Shea butter 4.5 Petrolatum 4.5Glycerin 4.0 Propylene Glycol 2.0 Finsolve TN 2.0 Phase B Sepigel 3052.0 Phase C Extract** 2.0 *Add ingredients in phase A to beaker and heatto 70-75° C. while mixing. Subsequently, add the phase B ingredient withphase A and cool to 30° C. with mixing. Subsequently, add phase Cingredient while mixing. **Extract can be Psidium guajava fruit extractor Kunzea ericoides leaf extract or a combination of both.

Example 3

Additional assays that can be used to determine the efficacy of any oneof the compositions disclosed throughout the specification and claimscan be determined by methods known to those of ordinary skill in theart. The following are non-limiting assays that can be used in thecontext of the present invention. It should be recognized that othertesting procedures can be used, including, for example, objective andsubjective procedures.

Erythema Assay: An assay to measure the reduction of skin redness can beevaluated using a Minolta Chromometer. Skin erythema may be induced byapplying a 0.2% solution of sodium dodecyl sulfate on the forearm of asubject. The area is protected by an occlusive patch for 24 hrs. After24 hrs, the patch is removed and the irritation-induced redness can beassessed using the a* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* valuemeasures changes in skin color in the red region. Immediately afterreading, the area is treated with a composition of the presentinvention. Repeat measurements are taken at regular intervals todetermine the formula's ability to reduce redness and irritation.

Skin Moisture/Hydration Assay: Skin moisture/hydration benefits can bemeasured by using impedance measurements with the Nova Dermal PhaseMeter. The impedance meter measures changes in skin moisture content.The outer layer of the skin has distinct electrical properties. Whenskin is dry it conducts electricity very poorly. As it becomes morehydrated increasing conductivity results. Consequently, changes in skinimpedance (related to conductivity) can be used to assess changes inskin hydration. The unit can be calibrated according to instrumentinstructions for each testing day. A notation of temperature andrelative humidity can also be made. Subjects can be evaluated asfollows: prior to measurement they can equilibrate in a room withdefined humidity (e.g., 30-50%) and temperature (e.g., 68-72° C.). Threeseparate impedance readings can be taken on each side of the face,recorded, and averaged. The T5 setting can be used on the impedancemeter which averages the impedance values of every five secondsapplication to the face. Changes can be reported with statisticalvariance and significance.

Skin Clarity and Reduction in Freckles and Age Spots Assay: Skin clarityand the reduction in freckles and age spots can be evaluated using aMinolta Chromometer. Changes in skin color can be assessed to determineirritation potential due to product treatment using the a* values of theMinolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measures changes in skin color in thered region. This is used to determine whether a composition is inducingirritation. The measurements can be made on each side of the face andaveraged, as left and right facial values. Skin clarity can also bemeasured using the Minolta Meter. The measurement is a combination ofthe a*, b, and L values of the Minolta Meter and is related to skinbrightness, and correlates well with skin smoothness and hydration. Skinreading is taken as above. In one non-limiting aspect, skin clarity canbe described as L/C where C is chroma and is defined as (a²+b²)^(1/2).

Skin Dryness, Surface Fine Lines, Skin Smoothness, and Skin Tone Assay:Skin dryness, surface fine lines, skin smoothness, and skin tone can beevaluated with clinical grading techniques. For example, clinicalgrading of skin dryness can be determined by a five point standardKligman Scale: (0) skin is soft and moist; (1) skin appears normal withno visible dryness; (2) skin feels slightly dry to the touch with novisible flaking; (3) skin feels dry, tough, and has a whitish appearancewith some scaling; and (4) skin feels very dry, rough, and has a whitishappearance with scaling. Evaluations can be made independently by twoclinicians and averaged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Tone Assay: Clinical grading of skin tone canbe performed via a ten point analog numerical scale: (10) even skin ofuniform, pinkish brown color. No dark, erythremic, or scaly patches uponexamination with a hand held magnifying lens. Microtexture of the skinvery uniform upon touch; (7) even skin tone observed withoutmagnification. No scaly areas, but slight discolorations either due topigmentation or erythema. No discolorations more than 1 cm in diameter;(4) both skin discoloration and uneven texture easily noticeable. Slightscaliness. Skin rough to the touch in some areas; and (1) uneven skincoloration and texture. Numerous areas of scaliness and discoloration,either hypopigmented, erythremic or dark spots. Large areas of unevencolor more than 1 cm in diameter. Evaluations were made independently bytwo clinicians and averaged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Smoothness Assay: Clinical grading of skinsmoothness can be analyzed via a ten point analog numerical scale: (10)smooth, skin is moist and glistening, no resistance upon dragging fingeracross surface; (7) somewhat smooth, slight resistance; (4) rough,visibly altered, friction upon rubbing; and (1) rough, flaky, unevensurface. Evaluations were made independently by two clinicians andaveraged.

Skin Smoothness and Wrinkle Reduction Assay With Methods Disclosed inPackman et al. (1978): Skin smoothness and wrinkle reduction can also beassessed visually by using the methods disclosed in Packman et al.(1978). For example, at each subject visit, the depth, shallowness andthe total number of superficial facial lines (SFLs) of each subject canbe carefully scored and recorded. A numerical score was obtained bymultiplying a number factor times a depth/width/length factor. Scoresare obtained for the eye area and mouth area (left and right sides) andadded together as the total wrinkle score.

Skin Firmness Assay with a Hargens Ballistometer: Skin firmness can bemeasured using a Hargens ballistometer, a device that evaluates theelasticity and firmness of the skin by dropping a small body onto theskin and recording its first two rebound peaks. The ballistometry is asmall lightweight probe with a relatively blunt tip (4 square mm-contactarea) was used. The probe penetrates slightly into the skin and resultsin measurements that are dependent upon the properties of the outerlayers of the skin, including the stratum corneum and outer epidermisand some of the dermal layers.

Skin Softness/Suppleness Assay with a Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer:Skin softness/suppleness can be evaluated using the Gas BearingElectrodynamometer, an instrument that measures the stress/strainproperties of the skin. The viscoelastic properties of skin correlatewith skin moisturization. Measurements can be obtained on thepredetermined site on the cheek area by attaching the probe to the skinsurface with double-stick tape. A force of approximately 3.5 gm can beapplied parallel to the skin surface and the skin displacement isaccurately measured. Skin suppleness can then be calculated and isexpressed as DSR (Dynamic Spring Rate in gm/mm).

Appearance of Lines and Wrinkles Assay with Replicas: The appearance oflines and wrinkles on the skin can be evaluated using replicas, which isthe impression of the skin's surface. Silicone rubber like material canbe used. The replica can be analyzed by image analysis. Changes in thevisibility of lines and wrinkles can be objectively quantified via thetaking of silicon replicas form the subjects' face and analyzing thereplicas image using a computer image analysis system. Replicas can betaken from the eye area and the neck area, and photographed with adigital camera using a low angle incidence lighting. The digital imagescan be analyzed with an image processing program and the area of thereplicas covered by wrinkles or fine lines was determined.

Surface Contour of the Skin Assay with a Profilometer/Stylus Method: Thesurface contour of the skin can be measured by using theprofilometer/Stylus method. This includes either shining a light ordragging a stylus across the replica surface. The vertical displacementof the stylus can be fed into a computer via a distance transducer, andafter scanning a fixed length of replica a cross-sectional analysis ofskin profile can be generated as a two-dimensional curve. This scan canbe repeated any number of times along a fix axis to generate a simulated3-D picture of the skin. Ten random sections of the replicas using thestylus technique can be obtained and combined to generate averagevalues. The values of interest include Ra which is the arithmetic meanof all roughness (height) values computed by integrating the profileheight relative to the mean profile height. Rt which is the maximumvertical distance between the highest peak and lowest trough, and Rzwhich is the mean peak amplitude minus the mean peak height. Values aregiven as a calibrated value in mm. Equipment should be standardizedprior to each use by scanning metal standards of know values. Ra Valuecan be computed by the following equation: R_(a)=Standardize roughness;l_(m)=the traverse (scan) length; and y=the absolute value of thelocation of the profile relative to the mean profile height (x-axis).

MELANODERM™ Assay: In other non-limiting aspects, the efficacy of thecompositions of the present invention can be evaluated by using a skinanalog, such as, for example, MELANODERM™. Melanocytes, one of the cellsin the skin analog, stain positively when exposed to L-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA), a precursor of melanin. The skin analog, MELANODERM™,can be treated with a variety of bases containing the compositions andwhitening agents of the present invention or with the base alone as acontrol. Alternatively, an untreated sample of the skin analog can beused as a control.

ORAC Assay: Oxygen Radical Absorption (or Absorbance) Capacity (ORAC) ofthe aromatic skin-active ingredients and compositions can also beassayed by measuring the antioxidant activity of such ingredients orcompositions. This assay can quantify the degree and length of time ittakes to inhibit the action of an oxidizing agent such as oxygenradicals that are known to cause damage cells (e.g., skin cells). TheORAC value of the aromatic skin-active ingredients and compositions canbe determined by methods known to those of ordinary skill in the art(see U.S. Publication Nos. 2004/0109905 and 2005/0163880; Cao et al.(1993)), all of which are incorporated by reference). In summary, theassay described in Cao et al. (1993) measures the ability of antioxidantcompounds in test materials to inhibit the decline of B-phycoerythrm(B-PE) fluorescence that is induced by a peroxyl radical generator,AAPH.

Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity (MMP3; MMP9) Assay: An in vitromatrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs are extracellularproteases that play a role in many normal and disease states by virtueof their broad substrate specificity. MMP3 substrates include collagens,fibronectins, and laminin; while MMP9 substrates include collagen VII,fibronectins and laminin. Using Colorimetric Drug Discovery kits fromBioMol International for MMP3 (AK-400) and MMP-9 (AK-410), this assay isdesigned to measure protease activity of MMPs using a thiopeptide as achromogenic substrate(Ac-PLG-[2-mercapto-4-methyl-pentanoyl]-LG-OC2H5)5,6. The MMP cleavagesite peptide bond is replaced by a thioester bond in the thiopeptide.Hydrolysis of this bond by an MMP produces a sulfhydryl group, whichreacts with DTNB [5,5′-dithiobis(2-nitrobenzoic acid), Ellman's reagent]to form 2-nitro-5-thiobenzoic acid, which can be detected by itsabsorbance at 412 nm (ϵ=13,600 M-1 cm-1 at pH 6.0 and above 7).

All of the skin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods disclosedand claimed in this specification can be made and executed without undueexperimentation in light of the present disclosure. While theskin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods of this invention havebeen described in terms of particular embodiments, it will be apparentto those of skill in the art that variations may be applied to theskin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods and in the steps or inthe sequence of steps of the method described herein without departingfrom the concept, spirit and scope of the invention.

1. A method for reducing skin inflammation or reducing sebum productionfrom sebaceous glands, the method comprising topically applying to skinin need thereof a composition comprising Psidium guajava fruit extractand Kunzea ericoides leaf extract, wherein topical application of thecomposition reduces skin inflammation or reduces sebum production fromsebaceous glands.
 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the skin in needthereof is inflamed skin.
 3. The method of claim 1, wherein the skin inneed thereof is oily skin.
 4. The method of claim 3, wherein the oilyskin has a shiny appearance.
 5. The method of claim 1, wherein thePsidium guajava fruit extract is a hydroglycolic extract and the Kunzeaericoides leaf extract is an aqueous extract.
 6. The method of claim 1,wherein the composition is free of alcohol.
 7. The method of claim 1,wherein the Psidium guajava fruit extract does not include the leafportion of Psidium guajava.
 8. The method of claim 1, wherein thecomposition includes 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight of the compositionof the Psidium guajava fruit extract and 0.01% by weight to 10% byweight of the composition of the Kunzea ericoides leaf extract.
 9. Themethod of claim 1, wherein the composition does not include a UVabsorption agent, a cyanin, aloe vera, red clover extract, and asilicone containing compound.
 10. The method of claim 1, wherein thecomposition includes a moisturizing agent, an antioxidant, and anemulsifier.
 11. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition isapplied to the T-zone of a person's face.